Gajah Mada

Gajah Mada, from the French house Lubin and composed in 2019 by Thomas Fontaine and Delphine Thierry, is a fruit-and-balsam fragrance that everyone describes as sweet. Most also call it woody, and a third mention floral, resinous, amber and citrus.

The fruit is ripe and dark rather than fresh: plum and Damask plum bring a jammy, winey sweetness, quince a tart, honeyed edge, dates a sticky, dried-fruit richness, and blood orange a bright, slightly bitter citrus to cut through. Frangipani adds a creamy, tropical floral note in the middle. Underneath, the resins do the work of keeping it warm: benzoin gives a vanilla-like sweetness, tolu balsam a cinnamon-tinged, balsamic depth, and sandalwood and patchouli add smooth wood and earth.

It is worn by anyone. The rich, dried-fruit character suits cold weather and evenings, and someone who enjoys sweet fragrances built from fruit and resin rather than from sugar and vanilla alone.

Gajah Mada — unisex fragrance by Lubin (released 2019). Notes: Benzoin, Blood Orange, Damask Plum, Dates, Frangipani, Patchouli, Plum, Quince, Sandalwood, Tolu Balsam. — Parfica open fragrance database