Invidia

Invidia from the British house Memoize London, released in 2018, is a sweet, leathery floral with tobacco warmth. Floral is the word everyone uses; about two thirds also find it gourmand and woody, and a third spicy, musky or leathery.

Cloves open it with a warm, slightly medicinal spice. The heart is lush and white: tuberose for creamy, heady richness, ylang-ylang for a banana-like sweetness, and orchid for a smooth, slightly vanilla-like softness. Caramel and vanilla pull the composition towards dessert, while tobacco and leather give it a dry, smoky, grown-up counterweight. Oak and sandalwood bring dry and creamy woods respectively, vetiver a rooty, earthy edge, and musk a soft, lasting finish.

Invidia is worn by anyone. Its rich, sweet, smoky character suits autumn and winter evenings, and it should appeal to someone who enjoys white florals in a dark, gourmand setting rather than a fresh one.

Invidia — unisex fragrance by Memoize London (released 2018). Notes: Caramel, Cloves, Leather, Musk, Oak, Orchid, Sandalwood, Tobacco, Tuberose, Vanilla, Vetiver, Ylang-Ylang. — Parfica open fragrance database