Vanille Caviar

Vanille Caviar is a dark, resinous vanilla from BDK Parfums, composed by Alexandra Carlin. Everyone who describes it calls it gourmand; about a quarter also find it floral, resinous or ambery.

The opening is unusual for a vanilla: blackcurrant brings a tart, leafy fruitiness and calamus a sweet, slightly bitter, root-like spice, so the first minutes are more green than sweet. The heart is where the richness builds, with vanilla paired with cocoa for a bitter-chocolate depth and osmanthus adding an apricot-and-suede softness. The base deepens rather than brightens: vanilla again, now joined by labdanum, which is sticky, ambery and slightly leathery, and Peru balsam, which adds a warm, cinnamon-tinged resin.

It is a shared fragrance, worn by anyone. The weight of balsam and labdanum suggests cold weather and evenings, and it suits people who want a vanilla that is dark and resinous rather than light and creamy.

Vanille Caviar — unisex fragrance by BDK Parfums. Top notes: Calamus, Cassis. Heart notes: Vanille, Osmanthus, Cacao. Base notes: Vanille, Peru Balsam, Labdanum. — Parfica open fragrance database