Iris Fauve

Iris Fauve is a dry, resinous iris from Atelier des Ors, composed by Marie Salamagne and released in 2017 for anyone to wear. Woody is the accord everyone names; most also find it resinous, and a minority describe it as spicy, musky, floral or citrusy.

Bergamot gives a brief, bright lift at the start, and cinnamon adds a dry, warm spice beside it. Iris is the heart, but in its earthy, rooty form rather than its powdery, cosmetic one, and liatris, with its hay-and-vanilla character, softens it. The base is where the wildness of the name comes through: Haitian vetiver and cypriol give a smoky, earthy, slightly leathery wood, patchouli adds depth, and labdanum and myrrh bring a dark, balsamic, resinous warmth that lasts. Musk keeps the finish from becoming too austere.

It is a scent for autumn and winter and for evenings, serious and slightly smoky rather than pretty, and it suits anyone who likes iris taken out of the powder room and into the woods. Fans of resinous vetiver will feel at home.

Iris Fauve — unisex fragrance by Atelier des Ors (released 2017). Notes: Bergamot, Cinnamon, Cypriol Oil or Nagarmotha, Haitian Vetiver, Iris, Labdanum, Liatris, Liatrix, Musk, Myrrh, Patchouli, Vetiver. — Parfica open fragrance database